Nagar Kirtan
Nagar Kirtan
Sunday, April 11th In total we will spend a
little over 5 days here in Anandpur Sahib. Our goal today is to rest up in the hottest
part of this day (over 100�F), we’ll relax and nap in the shade of our rooms, for
tonight we begin our Nagar Kirtan through the streets of Anandpur Sahib. 
Walking through
Anandpur Sahib streets going to Keshghar Sahib
This morning a group of women from our yatra went with Bhai Sahiba Bibi Inderjit Kaur to participate in the Mata Saheb Kaur Istri Sammelan, a conference for and by Sikh women.
I must say that some of the recent news stories about the events in Anandpur Sahib this
week have given me pause. They talk of water and food shortages, possible violence,
political discord, and in general -- disorganization. How many will arrive? Anandpur
Sahib’s usual population is about 15,000 people. If the total number of pilgrims
swell to 1.5 million, that would be 100 times the normal population. Luckily, our yatra
arrived early, just in case the crowds that arrive are, in fact, so large that they block
access into and out of the city. But, so far by God’s Grace it does not seem too
dangerous here and after all, I tell myself, Khalsa is all about being fearless. I also
realize, that if you just look about, you see there are many acts of courage and an
incredible amount of seva happening right before your very eyes. 
Everywhere you look you can see all that the local sangats have put into preparing for
this celebration. Along the roadways are water stations complete with stainless steel cups
that are chained to the water faucets. At other locations there are large cylinder-shaped
water trucks. Next to each truck is three or four sevadars who simply stand-by waiting
with pitchers of water. The sevadars are waiting for a thirsty passerby to stop. I watch a
simple, but most amazing example of how people here in Anandpur Sahib are completely
serviceful and also how environmentally friendly a water station can be. Here’s how
it works. A passerby stops, bends forward from the waist, puts his cupped hands in front
of his face and then the sevadhar pours until the passerby has sipped his fill. Usually
not a word is exchanged, the pilgrim simply straightens up – perhaps gives a quick
thanks via a nod, and then he’s off. The sevadhar then once again stands waiting in
the hot sun to repeat this service hundreds of times more throughout the day. It is
inspiring to be here.
Tonight, we're going to assemble for our
first Nagar Kirtan procession through the streets of Anandpur
Sahib. In case you don’t
know about this style of kirtan, the word Nagar means "town", and Nagar Kirtan
means literally singing Shabads around the town as opposed to doing Kirtan in the Gurdwara
or the house. This is usually done for a few days before a Gurpurb when the local Sangat
goes round the streets walking and singing Shabads early in the morning.
A Nagar Kirtan is a really fun style of kirtan in which the entire sangat sings and chants together while walking in a paradelike procession. The procession is lead by the Nagara or by another traditional Punjabi drum, the dholak. It’s a great way to bond a sangat together.
Our plan is simple, 1) walk to get the darshan of Sri Keshgarh Sahib 2) line up in formation --four abreast 3) take lots of drums 4) Put the eldest students from
Miri Piri Academy in front to lead the way with gatka and banners.
Later That Day in the Evening. If I ever had any doubt as to whether or not I should come to Anandpur Sahib, it has now been thoroughly eradicated. I thought I came on this trip to be part of the great tradition of Khalsa and to see my many Sikh brothers and sisters in the land of Guru Gobind Singh. I thought I came for inspiration and spiritual renewal. Now I know, I have most certainly arrived for this purpose and this experience.
Every street is thick with Sikhs who are beaming, and happy, and ready to be proud of
their religion. 
The booming, rhythmic drumming and colorful outfits of the dhol drummers
immediately commanded everyone’s attention. We all formed a procession headed by the
Miri Piri Academy students doing gatka. The students’ range in age from 8 to 18 years
old and all were dressed in their dark blue school bana. I found out later that the daily
training at
Gatka practice. This
ancient, fluid martial art was used by the armies of Guru Gobind Singh to build
discipline, strength, agility, and courage. It is said that one reason Guru Gobind Singh
was such a master was because his father taught him Gatka from a very young age. It is
exhilarating to see how proficient many of these students have become, especially the
youngest ones. Miri Piri Academy students doing gatka
With swinging swords and chakars spinning above their heads, the students carved a way through the crowds for the Nagar Kirtan procession. With folded hands everyone greeted each other with smiles and loud cries of "Bole so Nihal!" and "Deg Teg Fateh!" At times along the way we all became one voice chanting rhythmically "Sat Nam" and "Wahe Guru". It was a matchless experience with the energy at a constant, penetrating pitch. We continued up the incline to Keshgarh Sahib, Guru Gobind Singh's fortress on the hill, where the 5 Beloved Ones came forward on Baisakhi Day, 1699.
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